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ISIGI
by Alan Dale
 
I took my little boy with me to Durban Harbour one Sunday. Where once a bustling Port played host to a mighty armada of Mail Boats and tankers and cargo vessels and coasters and freighters diverted South around the Cape, today was a waste land of rusting cranes and marine paraphernalia, cast aside as if by a giant hand, mammoth lengths of chain tall as a man, twisted rails, propellers, and lone black bollards patiently waiting for lines to be cast from phantom ships.

It was a Bluebottle Day, a gusty North Easter ripping across the savaged ocean from the Agulhas. We climbed the red rungs of an old landlocked crane and sat on its platform to watch a flotilla of yachts negotiate the channel to the heaving sea. 'Look, Dad!' said my son, and there they were, their slick brown torsos electric in the sun, heaving upward as one, knees raised as they seemed suspended in their jubilation, then thumping down, their big black boots thundering in sweet unison, their hands slapping the cadence of their joy... 'What are they, Dad?' 'Gumboot dancers,' I said to him . 'Isigi' I said to myself.

In the early apartheid eighties I was between jobs, between lives, and a mad mate called Neville, who did the repro on all my publications, asked me to manage a motley bunch of itinerants from Umlazi who, hoping for another 'Ipi-Tombi', had created a song and dance show loosely based on Romeo and Juliet, called 'Isigi', the 'Sound of the Footsteps'.  

Neville, a frustrated thespian and theatrical producer, was financing them. There is little space here to describe what ensued. Suffice to say that it is a novel that I should long ago have written, and still will. It was a six month revelation, an adventure across an ugly, invisible, but malignantly powerful colour line that had kept all of us in a kind of stillborn ignorance of each other for lifetimes. But, ultimately, it was the Dance of Life, best symbolized by the Gumboot Dancers, a troupe that we used to have to collect from their compound each night that 'Isigi' was performed in the variety of weird and wonderful venues - school halls, shebeens, even a church - that our humble venture somehow found.

We were an incredible ragtag ensemble of amateurs venturing where angels feared to tread. The cast were enchanting, invariably brimming with vibrant but untutored talent. They all knew each others roles, verbatim, and swopped parts nightly. We had to obtain special passes to drive then back after each show to their dark dwellings in Umlazi, uniform as the blocks that were not even dignified by names, but merely by coded numbers.

The cast had one major flaw in their enthusiasm for the show: on the odd occasions when the Gumboot Dancers were on night shift, and could not participate, the performances of the rest of the players suffered. Those men in the black boots were inspirational to the rest of the troupe. 

One Friday we were playing at Kingsburgh High, a school with sophisticated stage equipment administered by the students themselves. The school, parents, scholars, teachers, had entered into the spirit of the musical with great gusto, but the dancers were not scheduled to show, and the mood of the cast was leaden.

Neville and I took a chance and drove to the compounds near the dry docks, and miraculously encountered the Gumboot Dancers returning from their shift. They agreed to return with us to Kingsburgh, and as we arrived at the back stage door, we had an inspiration. We formed a conga, and with the Foreman blasting his whistle, and the troupe chanting and stamping as they dragged two crazed whites in their wake, we danced up the dark stairs and onto the stage in the midst of the preparations for the first scene! The rest of the cast were electrified. They attached themselves to the Conga, which as it weaved down the aisle, was further elongated by delighted school kids, mothers, teachers, cake ladies, night watchmen, usherettes...we destroyed a specter that night.

In one spontaneous, glorious nova of joy, we danced apartheid away, banished it for one shining, eternal instant from our sad land.

So now, as I watched from the crane that glittering leap of men, I remembered the fierce ecstasy of that night in Kingsburgh. I realised what 'The Dance' must have meant to a people who had had their identity flayed from them.

I understood 'Isigi'.

 Alan Dale is a freelance writer.  You can reach him at: 
editor-AlumniArdifacts@infomail.co.za 
www.alumni.co.za 

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